Black Bulls, White Horses & Pink Flamingos:
A French Mediterranean Inn-to-Inn Ride
Written by L.A. Sokolowski
Deep in the south of France remains one of its most unique and unspoiled natural jewels – the Camargue. A place where black bulls, radiant white horses, and flocks of pink flamingos promise to paint an indelible memory of a horseback riding vacation of a lifetime.
Described on TripAdvisor.com as “probably one of the most beautiful and scenic rides in Europe,” France’s Mediterranean inn-to-inn rides follow centuries-old Alpilles byways through village perché or “perched villages” of Provence, past nearly endless fields of lavender and finally, to the sea coast and a triumphant gallop through the Camargue surf.
“This is an historic area best seen from ‘between the ears,’” says rider and world traveler Stacey Adams, CEO since 2008 of Standfordville, NY-based boutique horseback travel service, Active Riding Trips. Stacey has never offered a trip she hasn’t tried first. That adds up to nearly 70 trips in more than 20 countries including the United States, and a French Mediterranean ride never ceases to be a favorite for clients.
“The true magic is in the region’s eagerness to tease your senses,” she says. Which is easy when Le Midi (as locals call the region) averages over 300 sunny days a year.
“Provence is almost a place unto itself. The French spoken here is its own dialect, rich with local nuance. Entire villages, made from stones quarried from the foothills of the Luberon Mountains, sit perched halfway up the hillsides of this deep valley.”
Perched villages dating back to the Middle Ages are commonly found in France. Inherently inaccessible by virtue of the mountaintop settings, they were among the best-fortified settlements of their day.
From Perches to Barbs
Among the best ways to navigate such perched villages is from atop a sure-footed equine descendant of the region’s original Spanish Barbs.
“We’d all agree that riding a horse is the best way to stay grounded. What better chance to embrace ‘slow travel’ than aboard a trusty steed exploring the Southern Alps all the way to the sandy and wide open beaches of the Camargue?
“This breed is renowned as the true ‘adventurer of horses,’ thanks to their proven sure-footedness and sensibility,” she says of the horses that regularly carry riders through the mountainous zone colloquially known as “little Colorado.”
These are horses that will safely provide ample chances to ascend the region’s vistas and catch glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea in the distance. And along the way, canter through endless vineyards (Provence makes great wine) and olive groves, dense pine forests and – in the summer – lush fields of aromatic lavender.
“There are few places more perfect for mounted exploring than the diversity of Provence. The hardest part is trying to get away with just one week of adventure,” she laughs. “Be prepared to come back to ride again and again.”
Arc d’ Travel
Starting in the heart of Provence, the first few days offer plenty to chances to see and photograph village perché before the horses begin their trek to the seacoast, and the landscape begins to change into lagoons and salt marshes, dunes and rice fields, where flocks of wild pink flamingos pause between feedings and flights. The colorful birds migrate to Africa in the winter months.
“While trotting and cantering the sand tracts that bisect these marsh estuaries, you’ll see large flocks, resting and preening along the shoreline that opens up right in front of you. Such gallops feel like straight out of storybook. The horses are happy to go ‘off trail’ and equally enjoy the chance to open up a little. The sea air lifts their spirits as much as it will your own!”
Moving further from the Luberon region in the foothills of the Alps and closer to the sea, the scenery continues to shift. The closer you get to the coastline she says, “Villages become less abundant and the glory of nature surrounds you.”
Among the highlights of such an itinerary is a refreshing stop at the ancient fountains, outdoor cafes, and meandering cobbled streets of the Provencal village and capital of the Alpilles, Saint Remy-de-Provence, perched on a small hill and surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. One of the oldest villages in France (created in 500 BC by the Romans, who called it Glanum) before its destruction by barbarian civilizations, and revival through the Middle Ages until its 19th century notoriety as studio and home in the final year, 1889-1890, of the life of painter Vincent Van Gogh.
“This is the fertile and fragrant area that inspired Van Gogh,” she says. As well as Cezanne, Renoir and Picasso. And as you canter along those centuries-old Roman roads (did you know the width of roads today is still based on measurements for chariots), the scent of wild rosemary and thyme on the breeze might just make you eager for one of those farm-to-table traditional Provencal dinners.
“True culinary treasures are passed down from each original grand mere (grandmother) to the cooks of today: boullibaise, aioli, salade Nicoise, ratatouille, duck confit… Maybe it’s a humble farm table where generations come to relax, laugh and enjoy good conversation and plenty of local wine but indeed, it is a meal fit for kings in every delightful gastronomic way. Presented as it has always been done, simply and honestly, for all to enjoy.”
As you reach the beach, imagine only you and your fellow riders are enjoying the sandy dunes and open stretches, while feeling the spray of waves and wind in your hair. “Combine this with wonderful French wines and home-cooked meals each day,” Stacey says, “and this can be a trip you will remember for years.”
You’ll see firsthand why Active Riding client Jane G., who went on the Mediterranean Inn-to-Inn Ride in Provence with her daughter, called it the vacation of a lifetime.
“Our guide did an awesome job making a family of our international group, and teaching us everything we needed to know to feel confident on our horses for the week. The scenery was beautiful, the country inns and their proprietors were authentic and sweet, and we were well fed along the way. Already working on planning another trip someday.”
Every Day is a Winding Trail
Every day, Stacey says, is a trail to a new place more amazing than the day before. “On some rides, you’ll pass through dense, shaded forests that wrap you in evergreen and balsam. The next morning, you may be climbing up a craggy trail to an overlook high above fields and valleys below.
DAY 1 – Welcome aperitif, introduction to your trail guide, dinner at the host’s table and overnight at Mas de Recaute.
DAY 2 – Depart from Luberon olive groves and vineyards to the Durance River and a picnic. Ride the Alpilles Canal to the farm where the horses stay while you are taken to Les Gargoulettes in Lauris for dinner and overnight.
DAY 3 – Mallemort to Eygalieres. From Provence enter Alpilles Nature Park to Van Gogh country: the Alpilles. Visit the Roman village of Eygalière and Chapel St Sixte for pictures. Dinner overnight near Eygalieres.
DAY 4 – Eygalieres to Les Baux de Provence. Ride the landscape Van Gogh loved to paint. Stop near Saint-Rémy-de-Provence where Van Gogh made his most famous paintings. Admire Roman monuments by a lake hidden in the hills then ride the crests of the Alpilles and see the gleam of the Mediterranean Sea in the distance. Discover a medieval village, Les Baux-de-Provence, where the horses are loaded in the truck while you visit the village or the old quarries, with a multimedia show projecting Van Gogh paintings to music. Visit the village before going to Sylvereal to stay the night in an abbey. Dinner at Camargue Auberge.
DAY 5 – Astouin bull drive to Les Saintes Maries de la Mer. After an hour on horseback in the Camargue, arrive at a manade ranch. Mathieu, our Camargue cowboy, welcomes us to “grab” bulls to push through the marsh to a sorting enclosure. He will talk about bull and horse races, breeding methods, traditions linked to Camargue bulls, then sort a few and end his performance with aperitifs in friendship glasses. Enjoy a picnic before leaving for Les Saintes Maries de la Mer where after arriving at the hotel, go for a walk in the village and shop, take a stroll to the beach, or enjoy the hotel pool. Meet for dinner at a lively bodega in the village.
DAY 6 – A morning ride on the beach with gallops and walks in the surf. Lunch is prepared at the hotel before your afternoon ride along Vacares Lake with flamingos. Transfer to Mas de Recaute in Lauris for a last dinner together to share memories, pictures, and addresses…
DAY 7 – Say goodbyes after breakfast then transfer to train stations and airports.
2023 dates: April 4-8, April 9-15, April 16-22, April 23-29, April 30-May 6, May 7-13, May 14-20, May 28-June 3, June 4-10, June 11-17, June 18-24, June 25-July 1, Sept. 3-9, Sept. 10-16, Sept. 17-23, Sept. 24-30, Oct. 1-7, Oct. 8-14, Oct. 15-21, Oct. 22-28
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